Device used in the making of garment collars



Aug. 21, 1928.

N. J. MANGINI DEVICE USED IN THE MAKING OF GARMENT COLLARS Filed April13, 1926 INVENTOR a ATTORNEY-Y Patented Aug. 21, 1928.

UNITED STATES NORMAN J. MANGINI, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

DEVICE USED IN THE MAKING OF GARMENT GOLLARS.

Application filed April 13, 1926. Serial No. 101,789.

The present invention relates to a device used in the making of garmentcollars and an object thereof is to provide a construction which willturn the top or front collar over the canvas or lining and lay thecollar cloth or back collar in proper relation to the turned edge. I

To these and other ends, the invention consists of certain parts andcombinations of parts, all of which will be hereinafter described: thenovel features being pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a device constructed in accordance with thisinvention, designed for attachment to a sewing machine;

Fig. 2 is a view of one side of the device illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view similar to Fig. 2, showing the manner inwhich the goods pass through the device;

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 44, Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the intake end of the device; and

Fig. 6 is a sectional view through the collar.

An ordinary coat or garment collar employs what is termed a top or frontcollar 1, a collar cloth or back collar 2, and a canvas or lining 3. Thetop collar is turned over the lining 3 as at 4 to overlap the edge ofthe lining and the collar cloth extends over this turned portion, asillustrated in Fig. 6 of the drawing. A stitching 5 passes through thecollar cloth, the turned edge 4, the lining 3 and the main body of thetop collar 1. i

For assembling these parts of the collar the present invention isdesigned. 'In this instance, the invention is in the form of anattachment for a sewing machine, this attachment embodying an attachingportion 6 which is adapted to be secured to the bed of the machine,preferably adjustable through a set screw passing into the bed through aslot 7 in the attaching portion. The inner end of the attaching portion6 has a supporting portion 8 preferably formed in one piece therewithand bent into inverted U shaped form, the outer wall of which acts as asupporting means for devices to be described.

In this instance, extending horizontally from the lower edge of theouter wall of the support 8, there is provided a base member 9, althoughit will be apparent that this is plate or portion 15.

not absolutely necessary as the goods might travel directly on the bedof the machine. Also projecting from the support, and in this instanceformed in one piece with the base member 9, is an edge turning devicecomprising an upper edge turning portion 10 extending upwardly andoutwardly from the support '8 on a curve, thence arched outwardly anddownwardly as at 11, to a bend 12 from which projects a lowerhorizontally and inwardly extending separating plate or portion 13, thelatter being substantially parallel with the base 9, but in spacedrelation to the latter. This folding device gradually inclinesdownwardly toward the base from its receiving end and leads to a presserportion 14 which extends outwardly from the support 8 and inclinesslightly'downwardly in an outward and also a forward direction. The topcollar 1 with the lining 3 thereon spaced a desired amountfrom the edgeof the top collar is passed beneath the portion 13, while the projectingedge of the top collar is passedbetween the inner edge of said portion13 and support 8 to extend upwardly into the turning device so as tocooperate with the walls 10 and 11. This turning device gradually turnsthe edge 4 of the top collar over the lining until the turned edgepasses off the portion 13. When the turned portion 4 of the top collarpasses off the discharge end of the separating plate or portion 13, theturned portion 4 will lie directly above the lining or canvas 3 andoverlap the latter. At this time, the portion 4, the canvas 3 and topcollar pass beneath the presser lip 14 which is so inclined that itpresses the turned portion 4 infirm engagement with the lining 3 and thetop collar 1.

The collar cloth is now laid upon the turned edge. This is effectedthrough an outwardly opening channel formed by the upper surface of thepresser portion 14 and the lower surface of an inclined presser This notonly extends above the presser plate or portion 14, but also projectsbeyond the presser plate or portion 14, so that, as the collar cloth 2passes over the discharge edge of the presser plate 14, it comes intocontact with the turned edge 4 and is thereafter held in such contact bythat portion of the plate 15 projecting beyond the plate 14 and formsbeyond the plate a channel opening outwardly through which the topcollar 1, the canvas or lining 3, the turned edge 4 and the collar clothor back collar 2 pass. After these parts issue from the discharge end ofthis channel, they are subjected to the action of a stitching mechanismof which only the needle 16 is shown, this needle operating in closeproximity to the discharge end of the device.

It will thus be seen that at the forward end of the device. two channelsare provided, one below the plate or portion 13 through which the topcollar and canvas passes, another above said plate communicating withthe first mentioned channel and through which the edge of the top collartravels to he laid upon the canvas. These two channels communicate witha common channel in which pressure is applied to the turned edge 4, thecanvas 3 and the top collar 1. Above this last mentioned channel orabove the presser plate 14, which serves the top of this last mentionedchannel is a feeding channel for the collar cloth 2. This feedingchannel and the presser channel both communicate with another presserchannel formed by that portion of the plate 15 which projects beyond thepresser plates 14 and in which channel the collar cloth, the turned edgeof the top collar, the canvas and the top collar itself are subjected topressure before being discharged to the stitching mechanism.

\Vhat I claim as my invent-ion and desire to secure by Letters Patentis:

1. A device of the class described comprising means providing twochannels at the intake end of the device, one above the other, saidchannels communicating at one side and the walls of one of the channelsbeing arranged to turn an edge of a top collar travelling in the lowerchannel and having its edge extending into the upper channel the lowerchannel opening throughout its length laterally at the side oppositethat which communicates with the upper channel, means providing apressure channel beyond said two channels with its bottom in ahorizontal plane with the bottom of the lower channel through which theturned edge, a lining and the top collar pass after issuing from thefirst two mentioned channels said pressure channel opening laterallythroughout its length on the side on which the lower channels open,means providing above said pressure channel an additional channelthrough which a collar cloth may pass said additional channel openinglaterally throughout its length on the same side as the lower channel,and means providing beyond said pressure channel and said last mentionedchannel, a pressure channel through which the top cloth lining, theturned edge and the collar cloth may pass before issuing from the devicesaid last mentioned. pressure channel opening laterally throughout itslength on the same side as the lower channel with its bottom in ahorizontal plane with the bottom of a lower channel.

2. A device for making garment collars comprising a support, an upperand a lower blade, one above the other. the upper blade projectingoutwardly from the support and the lower projecting inwardly from theouter end of said upper blade below the latter to provide two channels.one above the other, the lower one of said channels receiving the topcollar and the lining and the upper one of said channels receiving andturning the edge of the top collar, a presser projecting outwardly fromthe support and engaging the work after the latter has passed beyond therear end of the lower blade to exert. pressure on the material passingabove and below the lower blade, and a second pressure plate projectingoutwardly from the support above the first presser to provide a channelbetween the two pressers for the collar cloth. the last mentionedPresser engaging the top collar beyond and in spaced relation to therear end of the first mentioned prcsser and providing the top wall of apressure channel through which the top collar cloth, the turned edge,the lining and the collar cloth pass and are subjected to pressurebefore passing to a stitching mechanism.

NORMAN J. MANGINI.

